White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia Deck

White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia

White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia

Looking for a deck that consistently has a full field of rearguards? Looking for a deck that trades rearguards for better ones from the deck? Then look no further than the Musketeers sub-clan in Neo Nectar, which focuses on retiring and replacing rearguards, allowing the player to optimize the field for any portion of the game. This deck variant focuses on this sub-clan and Cecilia, which allows the player to have an optimal early game and a powerful late game.

Deck List:

Grade 4 Units
4x Rubellum Lily Splendorous Musketeer, Myra
4x Dream-spinning Ranunculus, Ahsha
4x White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia
4x Sacred Tree Dragon, Rain Breath Dragon (G Guard)

Grade 3 Units
4x White Clover Musketeer, Mia Reeta
4x White Lily Musketeer, Cecilia (Limit Break)

Grade 2 Units
4x Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto
4x Prunus Serrulata Musketeer, Tessa
4x Pansy Musketeer, Sylvia

Grade 1 Units
4x Red Rose Musketeer, Antonio (Perfect Guard)
3x Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Rebecca
2x Dandelion Musketeer, Mirkka
4x Amaryllis Musketeer, Tatiana (Stride Helper)*

Grade 0 Units
4x Kamille Musketeer, Nicole (Heal)
4x Gardenia Musketeer, Alain (Critical)
4x Freesia Musketeer, Rosalia (Critical)
4x Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst (Stand)
1x Baby-blue-eyes Musketeer, May Len (Starter)

Deck Highlights:

 

Myra + Tessa

With certain conditions, these cards will power up rearguard Musketeers that are placed on the field. Myra’s generation break 2 allows units called from either hand or deck gain 2k power for each rearguard with “Musketeer” in its name. Tessa can give placed rearguards with “Musketeer” in their name 4k additional power if there is a unit with “Musketeer” in the name in the G zone and there are 3 other units with “Musketeer” in their names on the rearguard.

Cecilia + Captain Cecilia

Grade 3 Cecilia is the ideal first ride for the deck, since the best first stride in this deck is White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia (which requires Cecilia to be the heart). In addition, Cecilia provides limit break and another skill to call a Musketeer from deck, which are not dependent on generation break and can be used in the early game. If Cecilia is the heart card, Captain Cecilia is able to retire two Musketeer rearguards in order to call up to three Musketeers from deck from the top 4 cards of the deck.

Mia Reeta

Mia Reeta is the backup grade 3 in this deck in the event that the player misses riding Cecilia as the grade 3 ride. The main reason for running Mia Reeta is for her on-stride skill, which gives a stride unit with “Musketeer” in its name the act ability to counterblast one and retire a Musketeer rearguard in order to call up to two Musketeer units off of the top four.

Augusto + Mirkka

Augusto attacks for 12k total power when the player has a Musketeer vanguard, and Mirkka becomes a 9k booster when the player has shuffled the deck during the turn. When paired together in the same column, these cards create a 21k power column which can be on the field as of the player’s grade 2 ride.

Ernst + May Len + Rebecca + Cecilia

These cards are present in the deck in order to either replace themselves with another Musketeer from the top four cards of the deck (e.g. Ernst, May Len) or retire another Musketeer rearguard in order to call a Musketeer from the top four cards of the deck (Rebecca, Cecilia), ensuring the player piloting this deck has an optimal field at any time in the game.

Sylvia + Ahsha

Sylvia is typically the target of the superior calls from the deck due to her skill. Specifically, her skill allows her to call the top card of the deck to the rearguard if the unit has “Musketeer” in the card name (which is 100% of the cards in this deck). When paired with Ahsha in the late game (which can copy Sylvia in the late game) or used in the early game, Sylvia can fill a field with Musketeers so that the player can start optimizing the field and pressuring the opponent with field presence at any time.

 


Images of cards came from http://cardfight.wikia.com/wiki/Cardfight!!_Vanguard_Wiki. These images may have been re-sized.

*This stride helper can be retired from field at the beginning of the ride phase at generation break one, which allows the player to stride without paying the cost.</sup>

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Stages of Attacking Power and Shielding

One of the basic mechanics in the game of Cardfight!! Vanguard is the concept of using cards in hand to shield the vanguard or rearguards from attacks that the opponent will through your way. Shield in the game of Vanguard, according to the comprehensive rules, is “[t]he numeric value that expresses the combat strength while a card is used as a guardian”. In other words, the shield value on the card is the amount of power that it adds to the base power of the unit being attacked. The use of shield in the game can either protect rearguard units from being removed from the field due to attacks or, more importantly, prevent the vanguard from taking damage. So… how should players use the basics of shielding mechanics in Vanguard to more efficiently play the game?

Basics of Power Stages and Shields

First of all, it is important to consider what happens in combat when the ties happen. Specifically, in the event of a tie between the the defender’s power and the attacker’s power in combat, the attacker will win the battle. This is also true when adding shield to the vanguard while guarding from hand. In other words, if the power of the sum defending unit’s power and shield from hand equals the attacker’s power that is attacking the unit, then the attacker will win that battle.

With this in mind, one will also notice that shield value in this game comes in the form of defensive trigger power and the shield that can be used from hand, which comes in the form of 5k power or shield or 10k power or shield. With this being the case, stages of defensive power come in increments of 5k power. For example, if the attacker is attacking an 11k vanguard for 15k power, the defender only needs to place 5k shield (since 5k shield + 11k defending vanguard power is more than the 15k attacking unit’s power). If the attacker wants to force the defender to drop 10k shield from hand instead of 5k, then the attacking unit must reach at least 16k power, which is equal to the defender’s 11k base power and the 5k shield that the defender would place.

Implications of Power Stages

So… why is this important? Answer: This is important in order to maximize the amount of shield that the defender will need to drop in order to defend against attacks. In order to aim to force the maximum shield out of the opponent’s hand, make attacking columns that equal numbers that equals exceeds the opposing vanguard’s power in increments of 5k power. For example, if the opponent’s grade 3 vanguard will most likely be 11k base power, the player would want to create columns on his or her board that would equal 11k power, 16k power, 21k power, 26k power etc. when attacking/boosting with each column. Keep in mind that the increments might change due to the base power of the vanguard.

This is also important for the defender, since the defender aims to maximize the impact of his or her shields. With all of this in mind, the defender wants to save shield in hand that can defend at larger stages of power by avoiding over-guarding. If an attack can be guarded by a 5k shield, it is recommended to guard with a 5k shield instead of a 10k if it can be helped, since guarding with a 10k shield would waste 5k shield that could have been used later to guard attacks from the opponent.

That is the basics around stages of attacking and shielding power in Vanguard. If you have any questions or concerns, please put them in the comments section.

Goldfishing and Testing Decks By Yourself

Testing deck ideas and builds is an essential skill for trading card game players. Much like in a scientific experiment, testing decks in card games proves or disproves the validity of certain hypothetical builds. Although this process of testing is important, testing a deck build usually requires two players. Is there a way to test with one player? The answer: goldfishing.

Goldfishing is a term from players in the Magic: The Gathering community that describes the solo-testing process of one player playing a deck solitaire-style as if playing against a goldfish, as if one is playing against their pet. For the sake of this article, the fictional opponent that the player will face in a solo game will be referred to as a “goldfish”. This process is executed in the following steps:

  • Define player behavior for the goldfish. This behavior can vary from only giving a damage per turn to destroying creatures and other conditions. In addition to this, the behavior the player sets for the goldfish to do each turn may vary depending on what one wishes to test. if the player is testing for tournament validity, the behavior of the goldfish should replicate the kind of turn-to-turn play that one expects to see in a current tournament. If the player wants to see if the deck in question will function at all, the goldfish should replicate a player that is doing close to nothing during the solitaire game.
  • Play games with the goldfish. Play games as normal with the exception that the goldfish behavior is happening on the opponent’s turn. Also, play enough games that one can determine how consistent the deck can function as the player desires in the scenario set up in the solitaire game scenarios.

That sums up the process of goldfishing in a nutshell. If anyone has any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section.


Goldfishing is defined on this wiki: https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Goldfishing

Strategic Deck Archetypes

In trading card games, players build decks with a win condition in mind. A win condition is a game state that a player reaches in a game where he or she is deemed a winner by the rules. In this article, win conditions will refer to the typical and modern forms of such conditions, mainly through dealing lethal combat damage of causing the opponent to deck out. Since inception of trading card games, the deck building strategies of players can be divided among three archetypes, which are defined either on the speed at which a win condition is met or how interactions between cards achieve a win condition. These archetypes are:

  • Aggro. This archetypal strategy focuses on winning fast win in early game by methods that are too quick for an opponent to respond or defend against. Examples of decks that fit into this archetype are weenie* decks or burn** decks.
  • Control. While aggro strategies focus on the early game, this archetype focuses on the slow buildup of resources for the sake of winning in the late game. Examples of this strategy are decks with high-cost creatures.
  • Combo. When other strategies focus on the speed at which a win condition is met, this strategy uses strong synergy between cards as a win condition. Decks under this archetype mainly rely on the effect interactions between certain cards in the deck to win the game on their own.

According to many players, aggro, combo, and control are the most common strategical archetypes for deck building in trading card games to date. Other decks may appear at your local card shop, but most of them will fall into one or more these three categories. Some examples of uncommon strategies that are not covered by the main three include:

  • Midrange. Defined by its flexibility, decks that fall into this strategic archetype have the ability to speed up or slow down against opponents when the need arises.
  • Mill. While many strategies focus on dealing the required combat damage to win the game, this strategic archetype solely focuses on forcing the opponent to discard cards off of the top of his or her deck until the player cannot draw any more cards out of deck.

Thanks for your continued support! If you have any questions or comments, please place them in the comments section.


*Weenie decks focus their efforts on generating many small creatures for a low cost and/or early in the game.

**Burn decks mainly focus on dealing a large amount of damage to the opponent through the use of card effects alone.</sup>

Announcement: On Hiatus Until Sept. 8, 2017, Updates to Content

This announcement is a notice for our readers that we will collectively be taking a break from the blog until the 8th of September of 2017. During this time, the writers of the blog will be taking a much needed rest in order to combat fatigue, to catch up on archived content management, and to explore different avenues for the future of Cardfight Lab Tech.

In addition to this, Cardfight Lab Tech is no longer exploring the option to regularly create content on Future Card Buddyfight. This clarification is needed due to the website’s failure to generate consistent content around the game of Buddyfight. Although the content will not be created on a regular basis, this blog may publish content on occasion related to Future Card Buddyfight, which may include publishing some archived content related to that game. The decision related to the frequency of the creation of Future Card Buddyfight content is subject to change in the future.

We would like to thank our readers for your continued support as we attempt to create quality content. Keep having fun, and we hope to see you around!

Gaia Engorge Deck

Great Emperor Dragon, Gaia Dynast

Great Emperor Dragon, Gaia Dynast

The following article is a guest article submission and deck profile. Please enjoy!

Hello, Cardfighters! This is Jim, an active player of Cardfight!! Vanguard and I’ve been asked to write an article for your viewing pleasure.

Today I’m doing a deck profile for a deck that has been creeping up in popularity due to its strong stride turns, strong draw power, and its all around aesthetics. That deck hails from the Tachikaze clan starring Gaia Emperor. The following list is a heavily aggressive deck with it comes to the late game. Gaia’s early game is mostly straight forward, but I think you’ll enjoy this profile. With this in mind, I will go through each grade in the overview of the deck. Let’s take it from the top:

Grade 4 Units
4x Absolute Ruler, Gluttony Dogma
4x Great Emperor Dragon, Gaia Dynast
1x Destructive Tyrant, Gradogigant
1x Destruction Tyrant, Volcantyranno
1x Air Element, Sebreeze
2x Barrage Giant Cannon, Bullish Primer
1x Cliff Authority Retainer, Blockade Ganga
2x Iron-Armored Chancellor, Dymorphalanx

My choices for these G-Units are simply put, it’s the best I could come up with. Gluttony Dogma ensure that you have a solid finisher stride that doesn’t need that much set-up to pull off and is especially devastating to the opponent to be hit with Gluttony Dogma on first stride after G Guarding. Even with Gluttony in the deck list, Gaia Dynast has the potential to launch 7 attacks without stand triggers and only requires 2 of your multitude of Engorge units, generation break 1 already achieved, and 2-3 open counterblasts. Gradogigant is your typical first stride as it allows you to build up your hand for your 2nd stride and hopefully finish them off then. As the clan’s generation break 8 unit from the recent fighter’s collection, Volcantyranno is grants a lot of power to rear guards and wipes your opponent’s board. Barrier Ganga is very situational on when the card won’t actually make your situation worse (so I only play 1). Dymorphalanx is a solid G-Guard that compliments the fact that Gaia has the capability to mirage out its field every turn. In addition to the G Guards mentioned, Bullish Primer has variety and a bit of consistency added with the new heal trigger.

Grade 3 Units
4x Emperor Dragon, Gaia Emperor
4x Frenzy Emperor Dragon, Gaia Desperado

There isn’t much explanation needed here. Gaia Emperor is your ideal Grade 3 ride as it has the most synergy with your deck’s playstyle, allowing the player to give revival skills to two rearguards and fueling the clan’s engorge mechanic. Gaia Desperado is basically a weaker Gaia on vanguard circle, but it has a lot of synergy with the Dynast turn I mentioned earlier.

Grade 2 Units
4x Ancient Dragon, Criollofall
4x Ravenous Dragon, Megarex
3x Conflagration Dragon, Gigant Flame

The Grade 2’s may be a little boring looking, but allow me to explain. The reason why Gaia uses eight 10k base grade two units is because the deck, like a lot of G Era decks, are very weak to rush. Gaia’s first stride doesn’t have a lot of pressure behind it so, even if you Gradogigant on your first stride, you may not have the resources to mount a counterattack after that since you’ll probably already be at 3-5 damage before you stride. 10k vanilla grade 2s give you a solid 2nd ride and they have a lot of potential to help counter rush. They also commit to a grade 2 rush if you have a hand full of them and not all decks play 10k vanillas so they may not be able to to poke at them in the rearguard with the typical 9k base power grade 2 units. Gigant Flame also allows the deck to have essentially eleven solid and defensive grade two rides. You may be asking why I don’t have four of Gigant. My response to this:while it may have 11k base power, Gigant Flame has a very nasty ability that states that Gigant cannot attack a vanguard unless you have an engorged unit or a Gaia vanguard.

Grade 1 Units
3x Savage Guardian (Perfect Guard)
1x Barrier Dragon, Styracolord (Perfect Guard)
4x Prism Bird (Stride Helper)
3x Collision Dragon, Charging Pachycephalo
2x Cold Dragon, Freezernyx
1x Savage Heroin

The grade 1 units are my favorite of this deck. Savage Guardian add a very solid countercharging engine to the deck since the counterblasting can get a little hard to manage at times. While that is the case, four copies is not my optimal number for this deck. That very reason is because Styracolord is very situationally good as he has 11k total power when engorged and he goes back to your hand at the end phase, promoting aggressive early plays. Prism Bird allow you to almost guarantee stride every turn after riding to Grade 3. Additionally, it allows you to fish for the Gaia unit you want when you don’t have him in hand and have the other grade 3 in hand. Pachycephalo is good here because of how versatile he is. In addition to his draw skill when he’s retired, Pachycephalo also has the potential to be an attacker with his other skill. in Freezernyx is your cost refunding engine as he countercharges and soulcharges upon being retired. The 2k that Freezernyx grants as well can be useful in certain situations. Savage Heroin is, in my opinion, one of the most clutch cards in this deck, since it can be searched by the starter when retired and gains 3k power for each engorged unit on the field.

Grade 0 Units
4x Cannon Fire Dragon, Parasaulauncher (Critical)
2x Ancient Dragon, Dinodile (Critical)
3x Coelamagnum (Stand)
3x Cannon Fire Dragon, Sledge Ankylo (Draw)
4x Artillery Dragon, Flint Ankylo (Heal)
1x Baby Camara (Starter)

Last but not least, Grade 0’s. I’ll get the easy part out of the way first: the triggers. 4 Parasaulauncher is a very solid card; +1 soul, +1 hand, +5k vanguard. 2 Dinodile is a solid choice. I don’t think 8 critical is necessary when you want to draw into your combo pieces, but Dinodile at least allows you to have that extra soul or damage when you need it. That is the same reason why I like three copies of Sledge Ankylo. Simply put, draw triggers like Ankylo allow you to keep increasing your hand. In addition, that +1 soul and +3k to anything could change a lot. Coelamagnum is a rather controversial choice as he’s a stand trigger and most of your attack patterns would rather have criticals. Although this may be true in some decks, the reason why he’s in here is because he has many good uses out of being retired: +1 draw, +5k power to any unit, and he goes back to the deck after drawing, thereby allowing you to draw a non-trigger (most of the time) and allowing you to meet your quota for retiring for Gradogigant or Gluttony Dogma without having to waste valuable units. Flint Ankylo is a no-brainer, since it is a heal trigger with an effect that allows you to make the already good Bullish Primer an added in Agleam as well. Plus, he’s freaking ADORABLE! Lastly, Baby Camara. This card single-handedly helped me decide my grade one line up, and searched for a grade one unit when it is retired due to engorge effects and call it to the field with 3k additional power for the cost of one counterblast.

Now that I’ve explained the list, I’ll explain the Dynast combo that I mentioned earlier. The required scenario is to be on Gaia Emperor with GB1 already achieved, 2 or more face-up damage, and 2 engorge units in your hand (preferably 2 Gaia Desperado). Follow the steps below:

  1. Stride Gaia Dynast
  2. Use Gaia Emperor’s Stride skill to call 2 Engorge units to the front row and target them with the 2nd half of the skill.
  3. Enter attack phase and attack with one of the rear guards and DON’T use it’s engorge skill.
  4. Attack with the other rear guard, using it’s Engorge Ability to retire the other rear guard. This will trigger the inherited skill that Gaia Emperor gave that unit and call back to the field standing.
  5. Repeat Step 4.
  6. Attack with that rear guard 1 more time and DON’T retire anything unless it’s back row.
  7. Attack with Gaia Dynast and activate its Engorge Ability to retire 1 of the front row rear guards.
  8. Use Gaia Dynast’s GB3 skill to target the other rear guard and retire it in addition to all other units in the column (yours and your opponents) and countercharge 1.
  9. Gaia Dynast’s 3rd ability goes into standby twice; counterblast 2 and revive the retired units to the front row
  10. Pass all triggers to the revived units and attack.

It’s really much more simple than it looks. This easy to set up combo is what will either win you the game outright, or put your opponent so far behind, your next turn is more than assured.

That’s it for my first article on this blog and I hope you enjoyed reading it as I did writing it. Obviously, there are many ways you can build a deck, but I hope that this list brings you fellow dinosaur lovers success!


Images of cards came from http://cardfight.wikia.com/wiki/Cardfight!!_Vanguard_Wiki. These images may have been re-sized.

Editor’s Note: Progress, Patience, and Time

Augury Maiden, Ida

Augury Maiden, Ida

Let’s grow these seedlings! Seedlings of hope!

Augury Maiden, Ida

Hey everyone,

Over the last year and a half, a group of writers and myself set out to find cheaper, smarter, and more creative ways to play the game of Cardfight!! Vanguard. As I journeyed with along with these writers in the posts we created on this page, I have grown as a player, learning more and more about the complexities and strategies that surround this game and other trading card games like it. For this growth and opportunity, I am grateful to the readers and writers that have taken this journey with me.

Although I have seen myself grow through the process of building up content for this blog, I also have a sense of frustration about the process. At times along the way, I have been reminded that I still have much to learn, finding myself lacking in certain areas of competitive play. Even though I have learned from many great players around me, it sometimes feels like I may not reach that level of play. Although it has proven difficult at times to sort through such thoughts, after weeks of thinking about it, a thought came to me recently that might quiet my concern.

The thought: growth takes time.

Simple, right? So simple that I am bewildered that it did not come to me sooner. It’s true though. In many areas of our lives, there are many things that are worthwhile that are worth fighting, striving, and waiting for. Whether it is the overcoming of an obstacle, the solution to a complex problem, or the acquisition of a skill, each of these things and more might take time, patience, and a little elbow grease to come by or obtain. This seems to apply to becoming a better trading card game player as well.

Take heart. Rome was not built in a day, and neither are we. Keep growing, fellow readers,

Best regards,
Jonathan Smith
Cardfight Lab Tech
Editor in Chief