Top 5 Green Cards in DB-BT01 and First-Run Trial Decks

Hello readers of Cardfight Lab Tech! This will be the first in a series of Dragoborne articles that are planned in the upcoming months. To start off, I will be briefly discussing what I think are the top 5 most impactful cards for each of the 5 color combinations! Our first article will focus on green cards in the Rally to War, the first released set in the game. Listed below are my top five picks for the top 5 most impactful cards in green in Dragoborne in the set Rally to War:

5. Fal’thalas, the Lost Wind

DB-BT01-031

This guy is quite interesting to say  due to his early game applications and his usability through the mid and late game. He’s a 1 mana drop that can essentially break any dragoshield barring a 6 roll while diced and on top of that he just eats through red forts early if they leave blockers. His upside most certainly outweighs his downside, which is his 1 health pool. Although this is the case, a 1 mana drop that can bust nearly any shield is too good to overlook, especially when it opens the way for one of the better blue cards mentioned in a later article.

4. Mischievous Sprite

DB-BT01-035

I love cards that directly impact the board when they are played, and Mischievous Sprite definitely fits this category. She pumps up your green creatures when dragocrossed with a green die, making pushing or defending with creatures easier. Despite this, the real application is that she destroys ambushes in a format where ambushes are very prominent in multiple ways.

3. Tanglewood Druid

DB-BT01-036

This is a card that might not be very strong now, but it most certainly has many future applications to the game. If not answered right away, she will let you play any color cards from your hand and pump its stats to 3/3, which is fantastic for a 1 mana creature drop. I placed her on this place in my list due to her large future potential card. Although she may not receive attention right away,  she most certainly will in time.

2. Eleanor, Queen of Storm

DB-BT01-026

She’s very straightforward in what she does: disrupt or prevent ambushes from the opponent. If she is dragocross green, she shuts down ambushes for the entire turn. If you choose not to dice her, she will destroy an ambush on any opposing fort on attack. With her abilities, she ensures that creatures attacking opposing forts are not stopped by powerful opposing ambushes, allowing such creatures to push for game-winning turns more securely.

1. Springleaf Angel

DB-BT01-032

This is what I would consider green’s bomb. While others consider Teraxx to be green’s best card, springleaf is a 5 drop 8/8 if played in a mono-green deck or potentially a 5 drop 6/6 before dragocrossed and the player has 3 green resources. She has limitless power scaling, specifically when you consider ramp and she will survive any red spell that tries to kill her with raw damage, requiring multiple cards to deal with her. If you do happen to have her dragocrossed green, you can stand a rested opposing unit and force it to block her, potentially killing opposing creature threats in combat. Although this is a powerful effect, she only can target rested units with this skill. Despite this one detail, the combination of this ability and her ability to gain potentially limitless power makes her an absurd card now and in future sets.

Thanks for reading this article on Dragoborne! If you have any questions or comments about the article, please leave them in the comments section.


Images of cards came from http://dragoborne.wikia.com/wiki/Dragoborne_Wiki. These images may have been resized.

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Stages of Attacking Power and Shielding

One of the basic mechanics in the game of Cardfight!! Vanguard is the concept of using cards in hand to shield the vanguard or rearguards from attacks that the opponent will through your way. Shield in the game of Vanguard, according to the comprehensive rules, is “[t]he numeric value that expresses the combat strength while a card is used as a guardian”. In other words, the shield value on the card is the amount of power that it adds to the base power of the unit being attacked. The use of shield in the game can either protect rearguard units from being removed from the field due to attacks or, more importantly, prevent the vanguard from taking damage. So… how should players use the basics of shielding mechanics in Vanguard to more efficiently play the game?

Basics of Power Stages and Shields

First of all, it is important to consider what happens in combat when the ties happen. Specifically, in the event of a tie between the the defender’s power and the attacker’s power in combat, the attacker will win the battle. This is also true when adding shield to the vanguard while guarding from hand. In other words, if the power of the sum defending unit’s power and shield from hand equals the attacker’s power that is attacking the unit, then the attacker will win that battle.

With this in mind, one will also notice that shield value in this game comes in the form of defensive trigger power and the shield that can be used from hand, which comes in the form of 5k power or shield or 10k power or shield. With this being the case, stages of defensive power come in increments of 5k power. For example, if the attacker is attacking an 11k vanguard for 15k power, the defender only needs to place 5k shield (since 5k shield + 11k defending vanguard power is more than the 15k attacking unit’s power). If the attacker wants to force the defender to drop 10k shield from hand instead of 5k, then the attacking unit must reach at least 16k power, which is equal to the defender’s 11k base power and the 5k shield that the defender would place.

Implications of Power Stages

So… why is this important? Answer: This is important in order to maximize the amount of shield that the defender will need to drop in order to defend against attacks. In order to aim to force the maximum shield out of the opponent’s hand, make attacking columns that equal numbers that equals exceeds the opposing vanguard’s power in increments of 5k power. For example, if the opponent’s grade 3 vanguard will most likely be 11k base power, the player would want to create columns on his or her board that would equal 11k power, 16k power, 21k power, 26k power etc. when attacking/boosting with each column. Keep in mind that the increments might change due to the base power of the vanguard.

This is also important for the defender, since the defender aims to maximize the impact of his or her shields. With all of this in mind, the defender wants to save shield in hand that can defend at larger stages of power by avoiding over-guarding. If an attack can be guarded by a 5k shield, it is recommended to guard with a 5k shield instead of a 10k if it can be helped, since guarding with a 10k shield would waste 5k shield that could have been used later to guard attacks from the opponent.

That is the basics around stages of attacking and shielding power in Vanguard. If you have any questions or concerns, please put them in the comments section.

Goldfishing and Testing Decks By Yourself

Testing deck ideas and builds is an essential skill for trading card game players. Much like in a scientific experiment, testing decks in card games proves or disproves the validity of certain hypothetical builds. Although this process of testing is important, testing a deck build usually requires two players. Is there a way to test with one player? The answer: goldfishing.

Goldfishing is a term from players in the Magic: The Gathering community that describes the solo-testing process of one player playing a deck solitaire-style as if playing against a goldfish, as if one is playing against their pet. For the sake of this article, the fictional opponent that the player will face in a solo game will be referred to as a “goldfish”. This process is executed in the following steps:

  • Define player behavior for the goldfish. This behavior can vary from only giving a damage per turn to destroying creatures and other conditions. In addition to this, the behavior the player sets for the goldfish to do each turn may vary depending on what one wishes to test. if the player is testing for tournament validity, the behavior of the goldfish should replicate the kind of turn-to-turn play that one expects to see in a current tournament. If the player wants to see if the deck in question will function at all, the goldfish should replicate a player that is doing close to nothing during the solitaire game.
  • Play games with the goldfish. Play games as normal with the exception that the goldfish behavior is happening on the opponent’s turn. Also, play enough games that one can determine how consistent the deck can function as the player desires in the scenario set up in the solitaire game scenarios.

That sums up the process of goldfishing in a nutshell. If anyone has any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section.


Goldfishing is defined on this wiki: https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Goldfishing

Top 5 Red Cards in DB-BT01 and First-Run Trial Decks

Hello readers of Cardfight Lab Tech! This will be the first in a series of Dragoborne articles that are planned in the upcoming months. To start off, I will be briefly discussing what I think are the top 5 most impactful cards for each of the 5 color combinations! Our first article will focus on red cards in the Rally to War, the first released set in the game. Listed below are my top five picks for the top 5 most impactful cards in red in Dragoborne in the set Rally to War:

5. Carefree Orc.

DB-TD03-015

Carefree Orc is a solid card that can find its way into any red deck color combination regardless of what the decks game plan is. While dragocrossed, it can hit a 6 roll dragoshield for half of its value while either removing or assisting in the removal of early game creatures through direct damage. It’s a strong addition to nearly any red deck because of the sheer annoyance and power it can provide.

4. Pyroblast.

DB-TD01-010

This card just oozes with potential value. If you’re playing multiple red banners or if you’re playing with dice value modification abilities, it becomes very likely to threaten 5-6 direct burn damage on all creatures on one opponent’s fort. Anyone that triggers the activation of this card without paying attention to dice can put himself or herself in a game-losing situation.

3. Torch.

DB-TD03-020

Torch is the essential removal card of red and it has multiple pros and cons. Among these, one of the major pros is that this card has fort burst which allows you to shut down attacks or save a fort at random during your opponents turn without needing to spend anything including the 2 resources needed to set an ambush. Another major pro of this card is that you can hard cast it to take out important targets in nearly all stages of the game. The con of this card is that its damage is based on your dice value which allows opponents to have certain interactions with it, just like with Pyroblast.

2. Fafneer, Volatile Fire.

DB-BT01-073

Cards that are impactful right away as soon as they are summoned are obviously going to provide huge tempo swings, and this guy has that in spades. Although he’s just an under-costed 5/5 costing 6 mana, he makes it up in his effect. When this guy gets dropped on the board, he’s going to destroy a shield on a fort and usually he will kill a defender through burn damage, allowing you to push a fort down pretty easily. He always takes at least 2 cards to deal with him provided he actually destroys a creature. The pushing power is just icing on the cake.

1. Izarco-Tvash, Born of Magma.

DB-TD03-013

If you thought Fafneer had a huge edge in the tempo swing, you might have missed this big boy. Not only does he instantly impact the board in multiple ways that are all beneficial to you by burning any number of opposing creatures for a total of 6 damage, but he can do it again with 7 total burn damage when he dies and is dragocross red. With this effect, Izarco goes well with cards like Death and Decay, which wipe a board of 3 drops and smaller while Izarco kills the bigger creatures. In addition to this, Izarco hits the board and changes any of one of your dice to a value of six. You can use the dice modification alone in a multitude of ways. You can use this with cards that rely on 6-value die for effects, like Replenish the Ranks for yellow, which allows one to draw 2 cards entirely for free with a 6-value yellow die. Overall, Izarco himself will usually take your opponents 5-6 drop from them be a huge body on board and while diced makes your opponent scared to kill him as he just kills more stuff. This guy is so strong that decks  are able to just be built around him and very easily steal games just off the value he can generate by himself and that’s why he’s my number one pick for current red cards.

Thanks for reading our first article on Dragoborne! If you have any questions or comments about the article, please leave them in the comments section.


Images of cards came from http://dragoborne.wikia.com/wiki/Dragoborne_Wiki. These images may have been resized.</sup>

Strategic Deck Archetypes

In trading card games, players build decks with a win condition in mind. A win condition is a game state that a player reaches in a game where he or she is deemed a winner by the rules. In this article, win conditions will refer to the typical and modern forms of such conditions, mainly through dealing lethal combat damage of causing the opponent to deck out. Since inception of trading card games, the deck building strategies of players can be divided among three archetypes, which are defined either on the speed at which a win condition is met or how interactions between cards achieve a win condition. These archetypes are:

  • Aggro. This archetypal strategy focuses on winning fast win in early game by methods that are too quick for an opponent to respond or defend against. Examples of decks that fit into this archetype are weenie* decks or burn** decks.
  • Control. While aggro strategies focus on the early game, this archetype focuses on the slow buildup of resources for the sake of winning in the late game. Examples of this strategy are decks with high-cost creatures.
  • Combo. When other strategies focus on the speed at which a win condition is met, this strategy uses strong synergy between cards as a win condition. Decks under this archetype mainly rely on the effect interactions between certain cards in the deck to win the game on their own.

According to many players, aggro, combo, and control are the most common strategical archetypes for deck building in trading card games to date. Other decks may appear at your local card shop, but most of them will fall into one or more these three categories. Some examples of uncommon strategies that are not covered by the main three include:

  • Midrange. Defined by its flexibility, decks that fall into this strategic archetype have the ability to speed up or slow down against opponents when the need arises.
  • Mill. While many strategies focus on dealing the required combat damage to win the game, this strategic archetype solely focuses on forcing the opponent to discard cards off of the top of his or her deck until the player cannot draw any more cards out of deck.

Thanks for your continued support! If you have any questions or comments, please place them in the comments section.


*Weenie decks focus their efforts on generating many small creatures for a low cost and/or early in the game.

**Burn decks mainly focus on dealing a large amount of damage to the opponent through the use of card effects alone.</sup>

Announcement: On Hiatus Until Sept. 8, 2017, Updates to Content

This announcement is a notice for our readers that we will collectively be taking a break from the blog until the 8th of September of 2017. During this time, the writers of the blog will be taking a much needed rest in order to combat fatigue, to catch up on archived content management, and to explore different avenues for the future of Cardfight Lab Tech.

In addition to this, Cardfight Lab Tech is no longer exploring the option to regularly create content on Future Card Buddyfight. This clarification is needed due to the website’s failure to generate consistent content around the game of Buddyfight. Although the content will not be created on a regular basis, this blog may publish content on occasion related to Future Card Buddyfight, which may include publishing some archived content related to that game. The decision related to the frequency of the creation of Future Card Buddyfight content is subject to change in the future.

We would like to thank our readers for your continued support as we attempt to create quality content. Keep having fun, and we hope to see you around!

Gaia Engorge Deck

Great Emperor Dragon, Gaia Dynast

Great Emperor Dragon, Gaia Dynast

The following article is a guest article submission and deck profile. Please enjoy!

Hello, Cardfighters! This is Jim, an active player of Cardfight!! Vanguard and I’ve been asked to write an article for your viewing pleasure.

Today I’m doing a deck profile for a deck that has been creeping up in popularity due to its strong stride turns, strong draw power, and its all around aesthetics. That deck hails from the Tachikaze clan starring Gaia Emperor. The following list is a heavily aggressive deck with it comes to the late game. Gaia’s early game is mostly straight forward, but I think you’ll enjoy this profile. With this in mind, I will go through each grade in the overview of the deck. Let’s take it from the top:

Grade 4 Units
4x Absolute Ruler, Gluttony Dogma
4x Great Emperor Dragon, Gaia Dynast
1x Destructive Tyrant, Gradogigant
1x Destruction Tyrant, Volcantyranno
1x Air Element, Sebreeze
2x Barrage Giant Cannon, Bullish Primer
1x Cliff Authority Retainer, Blockade Ganga
2x Iron-Armored Chancellor, Dymorphalanx

My choices for these G-Units are simply put, it’s the best I could come up with. Gluttony Dogma ensure that you have a solid finisher stride that doesn’t need that much set-up to pull off and is especially devastating to the opponent to be hit with Gluttony Dogma on first stride after G Guarding. Even with Gluttony in the deck list, Gaia Dynast has the potential to launch 7 attacks without stand triggers and only requires 2 of your multitude of Engorge units, generation break 1 already achieved, and 2-3 open counterblasts. Gradogigant is your typical first stride as it allows you to build up your hand for your 2nd stride and hopefully finish them off then. As the clan’s generation break 8 unit from the recent fighter’s collection, Volcantyranno is grants a lot of power to rear guards and wipes your opponent’s board. Barrier Ganga is very situational on when the card won’t actually make your situation worse (so I only play 1). Dymorphalanx is a solid G-Guard that compliments the fact that Gaia has the capability to mirage out its field every turn. In addition to the G Guards mentioned, Bullish Primer has variety and a bit of consistency added with the new heal trigger.

Grade 3 Units
4x Emperor Dragon, Gaia Emperor
4x Frenzy Emperor Dragon, Gaia Desperado

There isn’t much explanation needed here. Gaia Emperor is your ideal Grade 3 ride as it has the most synergy with your deck’s playstyle, allowing the player to give revival skills to two rearguards and fueling the clan’s engorge mechanic. Gaia Desperado is basically a weaker Gaia on vanguard circle, but it has a lot of synergy with the Dynast turn I mentioned earlier.

Grade 2 Units
4x Ancient Dragon, Criollofall
4x Ravenous Dragon, Megarex
3x Conflagration Dragon, Gigant Flame

The Grade 2’s may be a little boring looking, but allow me to explain. The reason why Gaia uses eight 10k base grade two units is because the deck, like a lot of G Era decks, are very weak to rush. Gaia’s first stride doesn’t have a lot of pressure behind it so, even if you Gradogigant on your first stride, you may not have the resources to mount a counterattack after that since you’ll probably already be at 3-5 damage before you stride. 10k vanilla grade 2s give you a solid 2nd ride and they have a lot of potential to help counter rush. They also commit to a grade 2 rush if you have a hand full of them and not all decks play 10k vanillas so they may not be able to to poke at them in the rearguard with the typical 9k base power grade 2 units. Gigant Flame also allows the deck to have essentially eleven solid and defensive grade two rides. You may be asking why I don’t have four of Gigant. My response to this:while it may have 11k base power, Gigant Flame has a very nasty ability that states that Gigant cannot attack a vanguard unless you have an engorged unit or a Gaia vanguard.

Grade 1 Units
3x Savage Guardian (Perfect Guard)
1x Barrier Dragon, Styracolord (Perfect Guard)
4x Prism Bird (Stride Helper)
3x Collision Dragon, Charging Pachycephalo
2x Cold Dragon, Freezernyx
1x Savage Heroin

The grade 1 units are my favorite of this deck. Savage Guardian add a very solid countercharging engine to the deck since the counterblasting can get a little hard to manage at times. While that is the case, four copies is not my optimal number for this deck. That very reason is because Styracolord is very situationally good as he has 11k total power when engorged and he goes back to your hand at the end phase, promoting aggressive early plays. Prism Bird allow you to almost guarantee stride every turn after riding to Grade 3. Additionally, it allows you to fish for the Gaia unit you want when you don’t have him in hand and have the other grade 3 in hand. Pachycephalo is good here because of how versatile he is. In addition to his draw skill when he’s retired, Pachycephalo also has the potential to be an attacker with his other skill. in Freezernyx is your cost refunding engine as he countercharges and soulcharges upon being retired. The 2k that Freezernyx grants as well can be useful in certain situations. Savage Heroin is, in my opinion, one of the most clutch cards in this deck, since it can be searched by the starter when retired and gains 3k power for each engorged unit on the field.

Grade 0 Units
4x Cannon Fire Dragon, Parasaulauncher (Critical)
2x Ancient Dragon, Dinodile (Critical)
3x Coelamagnum (Stand)
3x Cannon Fire Dragon, Sledge Ankylo (Draw)
4x Artillery Dragon, Flint Ankylo (Heal)
1x Baby Camara (Starter)

Last but not least, Grade 0’s. I’ll get the easy part out of the way first: the triggers. 4 Parasaulauncher is a very solid card; +1 soul, +1 hand, +5k vanguard. 2 Dinodile is a solid choice. I don’t think 8 critical is necessary when you want to draw into your combo pieces, but Dinodile at least allows you to have that extra soul or damage when you need it. That is the same reason why I like three copies of Sledge Ankylo. Simply put, draw triggers like Ankylo allow you to keep increasing your hand. In addition, that +1 soul and +3k to anything could change a lot. Coelamagnum is a rather controversial choice as he’s a stand trigger and most of your attack patterns would rather have criticals. Although this may be true in some decks, the reason why he’s in here is because he has many good uses out of being retired: +1 draw, +5k power to any unit, and he goes back to the deck after drawing, thereby allowing you to draw a non-trigger (most of the time) and allowing you to meet your quota for retiring for Gradogigant or Gluttony Dogma without having to waste valuable units. Flint Ankylo is a no-brainer, since it is a heal trigger with an effect that allows you to make the already good Bullish Primer an added in Agleam as well. Plus, he’s freaking ADORABLE! Lastly, Baby Camara. This card single-handedly helped me decide my grade one line up, and searched for a grade one unit when it is retired due to engorge effects and call it to the field with 3k additional power for the cost of one counterblast.

Now that I’ve explained the list, I’ll explain the Dynast combo that I mentioned earlier. The required scenario is to be on Gaia Emperor with GB1 already achieved, 2 or more face-up damage, and 2 engorge units in your hand (preferably 2 Gaia Desperado). Follow the steps below:

  1. Stride Gaia Dynast
  2. Use Gaia Emperor’s Stride skill to call 2 Engorge units to the front row and target them with the 2nd half of the skill.
  3. Enter attack phase and attack with one of the rear guards and DON’T use it’s engorge skill.
  4. Attack with the other rear guard, using it’s Engorge Ability to retire the other rear guard. This will trigger the inherited skill that Gaia Emperor gave that unit and call back to the field standing.
  5. Repeat Step 4.
  6. Attack with that rear guard 1 more time and DON’T retire anything unless it’s back row.
  7. Attack with Gaia Dynast and activate its Engorge Ability to retire 1 of the front row rear guards.
  8. Use Gaia Dynast’s GB3 skill to target the other rear guard and retire it in addition to all other units in the column (yours and your opponents) and countercharge 1.
  9. Gaia Dynast’s 3rd ability goes into standby twice; counterblast 2 and revive the retired units to the front row
  10. Pass all triggers to the revived units and attack.

It’s really much more simple than it looks. This easy to set up combo is what will either win you the game outright, or put your opponent so far behind, your next turn is more than assured.

That’s it for my first article on this blog and I hope you enjoyed reading it as I did writing it. Obviously, there are many ways you can build a deck, but I hope that this list brings you fellow dinosaur lovers success!


Images of cards came from http://cardfight.wikia.com/wiki/Cardfight!!_Vanguard_Wiki. These images may have been re-sized.